The background song in this video is “Mostarska” written and composed by Dino Merlin. Scroll down to see the lyrics in Bosnian. I don’t have the English translation at the moment. When I complained to the sister of one of my roommate about the lack of Christmas spirit in Sarajevo, she said, “you should have been to Mostar. They celebrate Christmas there.” Mostar is the main administrative and tourist center, the unofficial center of Herzegovina, the southern region which makes up the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina. It is a beautiful city only 2:30 hours away by bus to the south west of Sarajevo. If Sarajevo is a city “of” the Bosniaks, then I guess the Bosnian Croats can claim Mostar “theirs”, just as Banja Luka “belongs” to the Bosnian Serbs. Mostar was named after its Old Bridge (Stari most) and the towers on its sides, “the bridge keepers” (natively: mostari). In 1993, this famous symbol of Mostar was destroyed by Croats-Bosnian Croat army’s bomshells during the fighting with their former ally, Bosniaks, for the control of the city. In recent time, Bosniaks and Croats have always been the city’s two main ethnic groups. After the war, the Bosnian Croats’ population exceeds that of the Bosniaks by only 1%. 1991 concensus (pre-war): Bosniak (34.65%), Croat (33.83%). 2003 concensus: Bosniaks (47.43%), Croat (48.29%). There is an invisible dividing line in the city separating the Croats who live mostly in the west and the Bosniaks, the east. At my roommate N.’s birthday party, I met a girl from Mostar. Not wanted to ask flat out “are you a muslim who really live in the east?” I covered: “Do you live in the east or west?” Oh, she was clever nonetheless because she saw right through me: “I live in Mostar. There is no east or west.” “But I mean, is your house from the east or the west side?” I insisted. She retorted “I live in Mostar” five more times for each of my “east-west side” interrogation before telling me her family lived in the east side. LOL My friend Vlatka and I were roaming the street of Mostar when we met two Japanese wanderers who wanted to see the bruce lee status. The guy was happy knowing Vlatka spoke Croatian and kept asking us to go see Bruce Lee together. “But he was taken down.” I said as I remembered reading an article about how people destroyed the status and took it down. At that time, I knew little about Bosnia. Thinking there were still bits and parts left of the once famous kungfu fighter, the hopeful Japanese guy, who was also a karate master, insisted to go anyway. So we walked further to the west side to the Spanish square where the poor dead Bruce Lee supposed to be. To our disappointment, he was not there. When asked a Bosniak from the east, we only got a simple answer “he was taken down.” But from a Croat on the west side, we got a bigger story: some Bosniak gangs vandalized the status bits by bits, broke his fingers, etc. Eventually, the city decided to pull it down. After the war, the status was erected as a symbol of solidarity, a protest against ethnic division. For an Asian dead man to be involved in the ongoing animosity between two white groups, it must be serious. Ouch! source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mostar Mostarska Lyrics

idemo tugo niz rijeku dole dole sad rane manje bole jos mi je san bistar k’o dan jos je pjesmom dozivamne pitaj tugo sta me to tjera ili je ljubav, ili je vjera jednom ce sve ovo da mine ostace tople usne emineja cu biti sijed, ja cu biti star al’ bice vjecno mlad moj mostar ja cu biti sijed, ja cu biti star al’ zauvijek je mlad moj mostar kako si miso, kako si brate da li jos sretni do tebe svrate nedaj da suza zamuti rijeku cuvaj je bistru i daleku kako si vaha, imas li daha jos jedna tekma na tebe ceka gdje ti je emir, taj stari nemir i njega ceka zelena rijeka ja cu biti sijed, ja cu biti star al’ voljecu i tad moj mostar ja cu biti sijed, ja cu biti star al’ zauvijek je mlad moj mostar… Let us go, sorrow, down the river Wounds are hurting less down there My dream is still clear as day I still call her with a songDo not ask, sorrow, what keeps me going Is it love, or is it faith Once shall all of this go by Warm lips of Emina shall remainI shall be grey, I shall be old But my Mostar shall be forever young I shall be grey, I shall be old But my Mostar is forever youngHow are you, Mišo, how are you, brother Do the happy ones still drop by Do not let tears make the river murky Keep it clear and distant How are you, Vaha, do you have breath There is still one ball match left Where is Emir, that old restless one The green river is waiting for him too I shall be grey, I shall be old But even then I shall love my Mostar I shall be grey, I shall be old But my Mostar is forever young…

thanks my friend T. and her sister for the translation.

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