Eating


Burek is another popular semi-fastfood meal, second-famous after cevapi. Burek is a common term to refer the pie with meat inside. In Croatia, Burek is the same pie with cheese instead. Pie with cheese is sirnica (a bit sour), with spinach is zeljanica , with potato is krompiruša, a bit salty). Cost of each ranges from 1KM to 2KM. Depend on which shop you buy the pies, you can taste the meat, the spiniach, the cheese, or potato in every bite or all you have in your mouth is a load of dough.

There are two different version of pies:

1. Pies sold in the Pekara/bakery: rolled shape and cost less than those in Burekdžnica. Avoid buying pies in Pekara late unless the shop operates 24 hours. The pies become harder and colder. Shuck!

180px-motani_burek_1.gif

2. Pies sold in a Burekdžnica are sliced into piece from 100g up to 1kg. They taste better because they are warmer, softer, and you can order the kajmak cheese to pour on top. I am not a fan of cheese, but this cheese is excellent.

burek-shop.jpg

burek-in-shop.gif

Dino Merlin, a popular singer in Bosnia has a song about Burek

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I will ask one of my friend to translate the Bosnian lyrics. The last time I talked to a religious Bosniak friend of mine, I got a “It’s too vulgar. He says everything about men and women, I can’t translate it to you.” Hmm,make me wonder.

Burek is the second popular fast food meal beside cevapi in Sarajevo.

Lyrics

Ladies and gentlemen, boys and
girls, in a few seconds we will
be landing in the most peaceful
country you have ever seen. In
preparation for this experience
we ask you to fasten your seat
belts and try to relax. Please
note that enter to this country is
on your own risk. Thank you for
flying with us and enjoy the
music.

Neko eko ima pemziju, a neko
eko, bogami, i platu
Šta to, zato, ima Mujo naš, Mujo
i dalje ima svoju Fatu
Neko eko, neko eko ima pemziju,
a neko eko, bogami, i platu
Šta to, zato, šta to zato ima
Mujo naš, Mujo i dalje ima svoju
Fatu.

Burek, pita zeljanica, janjetina i
lukmira
Izašla mu na nos duša ko u
moju pjesmu dira
Neko eko ima parlament, a
neko cara i carevu krunu
Šta to, zato, ima Mujo naš, Mujo
i dalje ima dobru cunu.

Neko eko, neko eko ima parlament,
neko cara i carevu krunu
Šta to, zato, šta to zato ima
Mujo naš, Mujo i dalje ima
dobru cunu
Sogandolma, japrak, baklava i
halva
Fildžan, džezva, cigara i kahva
Ne šeceri sitno, bolja ti je kocka
Crk’o svak ko u Bosnu bocka.

Neko eko ima šubaru, a neko
eko šarenu kukulju
Šta to, zato, ima Mujo naš, Mujo
i dalje ima svoga Sulju
Neko eko, neko eko ima
šubaru, a neko eko šarenu
kukulju.

Šta to, zato, šta to zato ima
Mujo naš, Mujo i dalje ima
svoga Sulju
Pet u pola s puno luka, janjetina
ispod saca
Babo nam je ost’o Švabo, Pape
nam je ost’o caca
Sogandolma, japrak, baklava i
halva
Fildžan, džezva, cigara i kahva
Ne šeceri sitno, bolja ti je kocka
Crk’o svak ko u Bosnu bocka

Fundamentalisti NOOOO
Unitaristi NONONONONOOOO
Neokomunisti NOOOO
Nadrealisti – eto, to je to

What is Cevapi?

Cevapi is popular dish in Sarajevo . They are small grilled rolls of minced beef, lamb or mixed in a half pita bread. Chopped onions served on the side, and cheese is optional.

The cevapi probably originated from Turkey and brought to Bosnia during Ottoman occupation in the Balkan. Cevadžnica is an upscale fast food restaurant, serving only cevapi. If you are in Sarajevo, especially in the Old Town part, Bašcaršija, be assured that you will eat the best cevapi once you decide to eat some. For pork lovers, you will not find pork cevapi in Sarajevo since 80% of the population are Bosniaks, another name for Bosnian Muslims.

I was raised in a culture which indulged itself in pork meat since pork meat was the cheapest compared to chicken, beef, lamb, etc. I grew up next to a neighbor who sold pork meat in the street market, near other family who raised cute little and not so cute big pigs to be slaughtered later. I grew up hearing “oin-oin” through the days and nights and seeing roped pigs on the wagon waiting to be delivered to their final destiny. To summarize, I grew up with a lot of pig-related experiences.

But I don’t miss pork at all, on the contrary, I was glad to not have eaten a type of meat for more than half a year. All the pigs in the world should say thanks to the Muslims. LOL.

Cevadžnica (place to eat cevapi)

Here are the three best cevapi houses in Bašcaršija, the old part of the town.

Banja Luka cevapi

I recommend this place if you like spicy cevapi called ŠIS CEVAP. The name came from the “shish kebabb.” Chilli peppers are mixed inside and grilled with the meat. At other places, you can only ask for some chilli pepper called “fefferoni” on the side.

Mrkva
The cevapi here are grilled popping hot, and so are the pita bread. Other people, my roommates for example, prefer the pita to be cold and soft. They even soak the pita in some broth.

Zeljo (1 and 2)

Across from Havana club

My guide book and almost everbody agreed that Zeljoserves the best Cevapi, so good that “if you haven’t eatten at Jeljo, you’ve never been to Sarajevo.” The cevapi are lright for me; perhaps my tongue has lost the norm sense. There are two Zeljo owned by the same owner, and located slightly across from each other. By the way, Zeljo is the name of a football favorite team in Sarajevo. [link to the team]

Inat KucaInat Kuca
Veliki Alifakovac 1
033 447 867

National 5 seats, all cards

How to get there: South bank of the Miljacka, directly across from the National Library. This restaurant has a distinguished green top, therefore the nickname “Greenhouse”.

Comment: Nice soup and combo Bosnian plate (not too expensive). Traditional look with ornaments and wooden seat. When I first walked in, I was completely in awe. The decorations threw me back to the old time. They play traditional Bosnian music, called Sevdalinka. Take a seat on the second floor in the back to see a glimpse of flowing water from the river. The translation of the restaurant name is Stubborn House. The locals said that during the Austrian time, the Austrians wanted to build a promenade along the north side of the river, next to the National Library and offered to buy this Green House, which was located at this site at the time. The owner kept refusing them and eventually he agreed on one condition that they moved the entire house, bricks by bricks to the other side of the river.

Avlja
Avde Sumbula 2
033 444 483
Grill, 60 seats, visa & master cards

Bon Apetit
Kranjčvićeva 11
033 223 715
Italian, 70 seats, no cards

Boss
Kranjčevićeva 31
033 654 236
pizzeria, 80 seats, all cards

Cabalo
Himze Polovine 37
033 221 819
Mexican, 60 seats. Visa & master cards

Dom Pisaca
Kranjčevićeva 24
033 471 158
International, 150 seats, all cards

Faletići
Faletići 4
033 24 710
International, 110 seats, visa and maestro cards

Fellini
Branilaca Sarajeva 5
033 441 716
Italian, 45 seats, all cards

Galija
Čobanija 20
033 444 483
Italian, 30 seats, no cards

Local comment: small and expensive, pizza costs 10KM and not very good.

Hacienda
Bazerdzani 3
033 441 918

How to get there: Old quarter, facing Zeljo 2.
Comment: serves Mexican food and has a full bar. I particularly like the spicy Mexican salad there. They have nice activities on Friday night though I missed it.

Inat Kuća (Review)
Veliki Alifakovac 1
033 447 867
National 5 seats, all cards
Karuzo
Dženetića Čikma
033 444 647
International, 40 seats, all cards

Kibe
Vrbanjuša 164
033 441936
National, 70 seats, no cards

La Famiglia
Maršala Tita 12 033 666 774
International, 150 seats, all cards

Lghts Hasana Brkića 10
033 654 988
International, 100 seats, visa & maestro cards

Lovački Dom
Nahorevo 6
033 205 112
National, 110 seats, no card

Magarac
A Šačiirbegović 6
033 226 266
Dalmatian, 50 seats, no cards

Marinero
033 205 444

fish fastfood, no cards

Location: On the main streetwak in the centar. Look for a cute blue entrance.
Comment: A fish fast food restaurant that serves fish hamburger, fried fish, squids, etc. There are 9 main orders, similar to those in typical American fastfood restaurant. The food was not superly great; I visited just because the place looked too cute. Price are from 2km for a fish hamburger to 6.50 for a squid plate with a bottle of coke.

Metropolis
Restoran Milk Bar
Maršala Tita 221
033 203 315
Nello
Hakije Kulenovića 34 033 209 298
international, 70 seats, all cards
Panorama
Fra Anđela Zvizdovića 1
033 296 707
International, 150 seats, maestro cards

Plavi Zamak
Zvornička 27
033 657 192
International, 60 seats, all cards

Pivnica
Franjevacka 15
Working hours: 10 a.m. to 1 a.m.
33 234 740 061 488 019

Comment: Serve Western and traditional food. Quite pricey though. Price can be up to 40km. However the beer is cheap.

Pomodorino (Full post)
Branilaca Sarajeva 51
033 218 810
pizzeria, 45 seats, no cards

Ragazzi
Olovska 28
033 663 733
pizzeria, 90 seats, all cards

Regina
Kranjčevićeva 35
033 665 624
International, 30 seats, no cards

Tavola
Maršala Tita 50
033 222 207
Italian, 85 seats, visa & master cards

The Club
Maršala Tita 7
033 550 550
internatinal, 35 seats, all cards

Via Del Corso
Kolodvorska 11
033 718 595
International, 120 seats, all cards

Vinoteka
Skenderija 12
033 214 996
International, 100 seats, master & maestro cards

Local comment: VIP eat there. Price can be up to over 100KM.


The first meal I had in the city was the chicken sandwich or sandwich “sa piletinom” at Piceriza Pomodorino on Branilaca Sarajeva Street, behind the main street walk. The sandwich is pocket pita bread stuffed with chicken and some white cream I had trouble distinguished. I came from an extensive sauce-flavored dish culture, thus if being asked, I can pick out one or two sauces. As for creams or dairy products, please just let me eat them and do not ask me identify them. The combination of the warm thin bread, grilled chicken, fatty cream, and my empty stomach from the previous eight-hour bus ride from Zagreb made the small sandwich excellent. I later found out from the locals that this place had the best sandwich in town. Nonetheless, that was the only time I ate there. Since then, either I got lost finding my way there or it was closed when I was lucky enough to stumble upon it. It’s ironic, isn’t it? I blog this entry to show people how to get to a place which I have trouble finding.

Life is full of ironies, people. Get used to it!

How to get there?

On the Coca-Cola’s red advertising, the name Pomodorino is almost invisible among the double-sized Coca-Cola text. You have more luck if you locate the Serbian church on Branilaca Sarajeva and walk westward from it for a few more steps. Keep your eyes on the right side until you see a Coca-Cola sign at the top of the entrance, left of HVB Central Banka.

Category: Eating

Sub-category: Sandwich, chicken sandwich